4/28/2023 0 Comments Furling main clew hieght![]() When you reef the mainsail, the line should pull the cringle downward and aft without binding. Reeve the reefing line through the aft cringle in the mainsail, then through this cheek block and forward along the side of the boom like in the picture below. Align the block parallel to the boom and pointing aft. Attach one cheek block to the boom on the opposite side from the eye strap. Attach one end of the reefing line to this strap with either a knot or a spliced eye.ģ. Align the strap parallel to the boom and far enough aft so that the mainsail won’t bind up against the strap when you reef the sail. Attach one eye strap to the boom slightly aft of where the mainsail leech meets the boom (opposite the cheek block in the picture below). If you do this with the boom and mainsail removed from the sailboat, keep the mainsail luff aligned with the boom gooseneck at all times just as it would be when mounted to the mast.Ģ. This should be with both reef points (cringles) touching the top of the boom and the mainsail pulled flat between them. Position the mainsail on the boom where it should be when reefed. The pictures in this post show the line starting and ending on the starboard side, but either side will work, it’s your choice. Just start on the same side as where you want the line to end at a mast cleat or at the cockpit.ġ. The following steps describe where to lead the reefing line and how to install the hardware along the way. (2) 29mm cheek blocks & (4) #10 x 1/2″ stainless steel pan head tapping screws.(1) small fairlead eye strap & (2) #10 x 1/2″ stainless steel pan head tapping screws.(4) small regular eye straps & (8) #10 x 1/2″ stainless steel pan head tapping screws.45′ x 1/4″ New England Ropes Sta Set rope or equivalent, less if it will not be led aft to the cockpit.Here are the materials you need to complete this project: In this design, the line runs from one side of the boom to the other through the grommet on its way from the end of the boom forward through the mainsail, down the mast, and aft to the cockpit (optional). A hook can accidentally fall out and it can chafe the mainsail. The main difference is that this system doesn’t use a hook in the luff cringle (grommet). This post describes a single-line system similar to the kit sold by a certain online Catalina parts retailer. If you take the time to fully understand both types, you can choose which system is best for you. In my opinion, speed of controlling sail area is of the essence and why I prefer it. Some people prefer the basic approach of double-line reefing, others prefer the speed of a single-line system. But that doesn’t mean that it won’t still work. The luff cringle will pull tight while the leech cringle is just starting to pull down. A double-line system is a little bit simpler design but it can take more time to use. Opponents of single-line reefing will point out that a single-line system can’t pull both reef points of the sail evenly at the same time and they’re right. A single-line system has fewer lines to attend to, which can make it faster to use but it’s a little more complicated than a double-line system. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages. Reefing systems for trailerable sailboats typically come in two types: single-line and double-line. Having a system of reefing lines in place and ready to use at any time increases your ability to reef smoothly and efficiently (in a jiffy) when conditions warrant it. That method is not very safe to use during the weather conditions when you’re most likely to need to reef. You can do it with just a few short lengths of rope but it will be more time consuming and difficult than it needs to be. Your reefing rigging plays an important part in that. Your ability to reef your mainsail is one of the most important sailing skills that you can learn.
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